Circled back to the annual maintenance. I had to use vice-grips to crack the bolts on the impeller cover – but it came off ok. The impeller turned out to be like-new. I replaced it, and the O-ring, anyway.
I need to look at the Raycor fuel filter, grease a bunk bearing on the prop. shaft, and find out if I have zincs embedded in the raw water cooling system. I can call the ‘annual’ done at that point.
I was pulling away from the dock at Chatter Box Falls when I noticed that one of my fenders was still out. I tried to pull it up but it was too difficult for me to get at it with the canoe strapped to the side. In my effort to do this I pulled off one of the hand rail posts and very nearly ended up in the ‘drink’.
I pulled the boat back to the dock and took care of the fender.
Now at home so I decided to do the repair. I scrounged up 4, slightly larger, screws. I decided that, in this case, a bit of PL adhesive was warranted.
The screws are a bit proud but it is worth it. I think if it gets yanked out again it will take a section of the roof with it.
As I contemplate the work to re-varnish Merva I come to the boat house and better protecting Merva from the sun. I have decided to start to ‘button up’ the boathouse. I started this with replacing some of the more deteriorated plywood on the sunny side.
Getting ready for a cruise to Chatter Box falls. Depart around March 20th. First order of business is to get parts. I went looking for replacements for the house batteries (2x Trojan T-125 Plus) but could not find any locally. So picked a pair of ‘Interstate’ equivalents. They are about 10-15% poorer on the spec. sheet but about 30% cheaper. Even still I would have preferred the Trojan batteries.
I installed the ‘Interstate’ batteries without a hitch.
Rule created the LoPro (low profile) 900 to allow the bilge pump to fit into tight spaces. It is only 2.25 inches high and the outlet can easily be rotated to a desired angle. It can also be configured to kick-in at 2″ or (a very shallow) 1.3″. Mine came configured for 1.3″ and I suspect most folks would want it there. It can also be configured to check for water, by trying to suck some, every 2 minutes. In short it does everything. I wanted it for its low profile and its ability to kick-in at 1.3″.
My objective? To capture the drip from the stuffing box (using a small plastic container) and pump it out. In this way the bilge at large would remain dry. I had a 15 foot run with 3/4″ pipe to get to the thru-hull.
My first problem was that the built-in check valve was not holding the water back. I filled the small plastic container and the pump kicked in and emptied it in short order. The container should take about 3 or 4 days to fill enough to get to 1.3″ but it took just a few hours. The pump would kick in and pump when there was enough water – but no water was coming out of the thru-hull. So it was pumping the water into the pipe, the water was slowly leaking from the pipe and back into the bilge, then the pump would send the same water back up the pipe. This may have been caused by one or both of the following; the amount of water was insufficient to put pressure in the check valve to close it tightly or the built-in check valve was used in an elbow fitting (I gather this combination can be problematic). This would make most folks think that the bilge was filling up from other sources and/or that the pump is working based upon a timer.
Two people I talked to at the marina had this experience and returned the pump to the supplier. I had limited options so ‘I worked the problem’.
My second problem was an inability for the pump to always prime itself at 1.3″ depth. I replaced the elbow with the straight fitting and left out the built-in check valve. I installed an inline check valve about 1′ from the pump. The pump ran but it could not move any water. It eventually time out. I managed to make my plastic container a bit deeper using some tuck tape – just enough to hold 2″ of water. I switched the pump from 1.3″ to 2″ and tried it again. I filled the container several times. The pipe was filled and eventually water started to come out the thru hull. Success!
The pump can switch itself to a 2.5 minute check when its set to work based upon depth. This can confuse folks into thinking that its broken or simply incapable of operating based upon depth (read; no way to avoid regular noise from the pump checking for water pressure instead of depth). The reason why the pump may switch modes is reasonable but an unaware consumer may not care.
If you are going to use the 1.3″ depth setting (the default); do so only if there is a large enough volume of water in the bilge (at that depth) to fill the entire pipe x 2, and avoid the elbow fitting. Even then; I would have to wonder if the pump would reliably prime itself. I would avoid this setting all together.
If you are going to use the 2″ depth setting; do so only if there is a large enough volume of water in the bilge (at that depth) to fill the entire pipe x 2 OR install an inline check valve. Avoid the elbow fitting on the pump. This setting can work well.
While I know that an inline check-valve is not recommended – it seems to be working for me. Also; there is little chance of debris in this application. Furthermore; its not critical. There are other pumps on this boat ready to go to work for serious water ingress.
I am sure I will come back to this to make some improvements/tweaks but for now I am moving on (to finding out why the hot water heater leaks).